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What Is Vegan Leather Made Of?

by 顺之 聂 02 Jan 2024

In the past, people used animal skin to protect themselves from cold and heat to survive, and natural selection of the fittest to survive. This is understandable, but nowadays people no longer worry about survival issues but use animal skin for clothing. Because of human needs, the global leather industry has slaughtered over 1 billion animals. What a horrifying figure, just for the animal skin in your closet.

Leather is one of the most popular types of fabric that is widely used all over the world. However, the word "leather" just broadly categorizes the fabric, meaning there are several different types of leather such as genuine leather, high-quality leather, split leather, bonded leather, genuine leather, and natural leather. That's why eco-friendly leather, a better substitute for animal skin, has emerged. But you may be wondering what is vegan leather made of at the same time.

Synthetic leather and leather are two more types of leather. The need to find alternatives to replace natural fur and leather has been around for a long time. More and more people around the world consciously refuse things made of natural leather, opting in favor of so-called vegan products. This is due not only to the desire not to kill animals but also to the popular opinion about the environmental friendliness of artificial leather.

Veganism is a whole philosophy of a new conscious and ecological attitude towards the world around us and ourselves. The desire to eat without cruelty to animals has also spread to clothing and footwear. Vegan leather has emerged ─ a fashionable material that even famous designers do not treat as fake or cheap.

Today, the trend is synthetic leather, which is now considered the most fashionable material for the production of clothing and shoes from leading brands. Consider its composition, advantages and disadvantages, and differences from natural. Let's consider all the pros and cons of the fashionable eco-alternative and understand whether vegan leather is so safe for nature and humans.
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What Is Vegan Leather?

Vegan leather is what we commonly call synthetic leather. It is an alternative to animal skin and is produced without the use of any animal products. It is a material that mimics leather but is made from artificial or plant products instead of animal skins, such as cork, cactus, coffee, other fruit waste, and recycled plastic.

Vegan leather requires no water to grow and is biodegradable, which is good for the environment and saves animals. In addition, cork is recycled into leather without the use of harmful chemicals. This type of leather is the first choice for the fashion, leather goods, furniture, and automotive industries. It is environmentally friendly, biodegradable, and animal cruelty-free.

When leather is labeled as vegan, it means that it does not contain any animal products. For many, this is reason enough to forgo natural leather for the sake of animal welfare; for others, the fact that these options are often cheaper comes to the forefront. Vegan leather can be derived from both plant-based and man-made raw materials. Visually and to the touch, in many cases it resembles natural leather.

What Is Vegan Leather Made Of?

Vegan leather is a product that we now commonly refer to as artificial leather. Like vegan food, this eco-friendly leather is produced without the use of animals. It is important to realize that the term "vegan" itself is not synonymous with "eco-friendly" material. It merely indicates that the item is made from plants, not animals.

The production of leatherette actively began to develop in the 70s, but at that time it was made mainly from polyvinyl chloride (PVC). This material is now considered very dangerous because it vaporizes carcinogens. Moreover, artificial leather has gained notoriety thanks to this polymer: it does not tolerate temperature differences, cracking, or exposing the fabric base. Things made of PVC very quickly fall into disrepair.

The first step to determining if synthetic leather can be a part of your life is to know what it's made of. Well, just as conventional leather is made from the skin of various animals, synthetic leather is also made from various non-animal materials. Today, all vegan leather can be roughly divided into three types: artificial (synthetic) leather, vegetable plastic hybrids, and plastic-free leather.

While PVC and polyurethane are the most commonly used materials in synthetic leather, there are also natural options. The next type, plant plastic hybrids, involves a combination of plant materials and polyurethane, which is added to make the products durable and waterproof. Today, many plant materials are used for vegan leather, including pineapple leaves, cactus leaves, grape skins, and even mushroom mycelium.

These materials can also be used to make vegan leather:

Paper
Amazing, isn't it? It's not the tabbed paper used in school, but rather the stiff paper used in cardboard boxes. An example of a paper synthetic skin is washi. It is derived from the back of a tree named Kozo. If you're worried about deforestation, there's no need, as the Kozo tree is a sustainable fast-growing relative of the silkworm.

Cork
Cork is well-known in the fashion industry, especially in wedge shoes. Compared to other synthetic leather materials, it is considered the most eco-friendly. Cork is natural, waterproof, has an organic texture, and is easily recyclable.

Recycled Rubber
I have seen so many backpacks made from recycled rubber and they have a leather texture. Recycled rubber looks attractive and is quite durable.
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Vegan Leather Vs. Leather: What Is the Difference?

Eco-friendly leather is increasingly used in the production of clothing, footwear, and furniture. But how does it differ from natural leather? Natural leather comes from the skin of animals, mainly cows (but poor crocodiles and pythons are also in danger). Its production is linked to the death of the animals killed (something many people don't think about). This material is very durable and allows adequate moisture circulation.

Vegan leather (otherwise known as artificial leather) is made of a material that mimics natural leather. It is made of polyester fabric, additionally coated with polyvinyl chloride. During production, it is subjected to chemical processes.

Although both materials are similar, they are easy to distinguish. First of all, it is worth paying attention to the label. It should contain information about whether the product was created from natural or synthetic materials. The smell can also help distinguish between the materials. Natural leather has a specific odor, while synthetic leather is usually odorless. The texture of synthetic leather looks the same, which is how it is mass-produced. Natural leather has irregular cavities.

Is Vegan Leather More Sustainable Than Real Leather?

According to the global fashion search engine Lyst, the number of requests for products made from vegan materials has increased by 75% over the past year. Because of this, brands are constantly on the lookout for more sustainable alternatives for production. But is vegan leather better than real leather? Is it really more eco-friendly than genuine leather?

An environmental report developed by Kering in 2018 showed that producing vegan leather can be a third more environmentally friendly than producing natural leather. However, while vegan alternatives have a lower environmental impact when produced, they have clear drawbacks. Especially when they are made of plastic. Of course, not caring about what we are turning our planet into is a matter of personal ethics for each of us. However, the question remains: if you want to minimize harm to the environment, can vegan leather help you do so?

"It's synthetic, and it will take longer to decompose than natural leather."
One of the most common arguments against vegan leather is that it will end up in a landfill sooner or later, and there's no telling how long it will take to decompose (and what trace elements it will break down into). Natural leather is safer in this sense.

Unfortunately, this is not the case. Only natural leather obtained by the kraft method, without industrial processing, is safer. Mass production of leather today is organized as follows:
the leather is obtained after slaughtering an animal (these are, in most cases, the animals we eat);
strong chemicals are used in the dressing process to stop the decomposition process;
because the animal is not raised specifically for its skin, the skin obtained after slaughter is of very uneven quality, often covered with scars and has other defects;
to give the leather a uniform and expensive look, it is debarked - the top layer is removed and then coated with chemical compounds that give the leather a smooth texture.

Such leather has all the same environmentally unsightly characteristics as PU and, once in a landfill, takes just as long to decompose and release toxins.

"The production of vegan leather is more dangerous for nature than the production of natural leather."
This is also not true: leather production requires a very large amount of water, and modern tanning plants use many environmentally toxic substances in the processing of natural leather.

Strong reagents are used in the preparation of raw materials for dressing, and in the process of leaching these reagents, poisoned wastewater flows into water bodies, poisoning them.

All experts agree that PU production cannot be called environmentally friendly, but mass production of natural leather is not much better in this sense.

"Polyurethane is plastic, with all its consequences."
Opponents of artificial leather point out that polyurethane is a plastic, and in the process of decomposition, it forms micro-particles that pollute the environment in the same way as plastic bottles drifting in the ocean.

Unfortunately, the opponents of vegan leather are right about this: things made of polyurethane without recycling end their days just like all the other plastic we throw away tons of every day.

"Polyurethane is recyclable."
In terms of recycling, natural leather is a much more ethical material than faux leather. Used PU can only be recycled into vinyl, whereas old leather items can be recycled in many different ways.

"Vegan leather is exclusively synthetic."
No. It also includes a range of materials that are derived from natural raw materials:

MuLeather, a material that resembles leather and is derived from the processing of a special type of mushroom.

Apple Leather or Pineapple leaves Leather - a leather that is obtained from processing the peels and leaves of apples and pineapples.

These types of leather can already be found on the market and they are indeed eco-friendly, but their disadvantage is their significantly lower durability than natural leather (in fact, they are closer to textiles).

To summarize, it is rather sad: the modern fashion industry is organized in such a way that there is no single and 100% environmentally friendly solution to the problem of using leather in clothing production.

What Are Vegan Leather Benefits?

Vegan leather is cheaper.
Does not require special care.
Much lighter than natural leather.
Easy to clean.
Diversity of design. Eco-leather mimics different types of animal skin (e.g. snake, crocodile, cow, etc.) and offers a wide range of colors and shades.

Caution: Natural materials deteriorate quickly, so they can no longer look good and fulfill their function.
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