What Is a Duffle Coat？
28 Dec 2023
What do the commanders of the 8th British Army in World War II, the legendary Field Marshal Montgomery, and Paddington Bear have in common? The answer is the classic English hooded duffle coat. Both of them never got out of it. Paddington Bear wears a classic felt coat. Why did the parents in the movie put Paddington in a felt coat specifically? It's simple. After all, Paddington arrived in London by ship, and a felt coat is essentially a nautical uniform.
A duffle coat is a warm half-coat made of coarse, dense woolen fabric with a hood and an overlapping basque. It is sewn mainly from dense wool, although modern models are produced from other materials. The main design element that distinguishes this product from other types of outerwear are original buttons made in the form of elongated sticks, wooden or horn. Among all the outerwear models that will be popular this season, one of the brightest microtrends will be stylish duffle coats, with bone buttons of unusual shapes and accent loops on the front.
One of the most recognizable casual closet items, the duffle coat embodies the noble traditions of British fashion and has been a true classic for decades. For all the cyclical and capricious nature of fashion, the duffle coat can be found in the closet of men and women, with many fashion designers including them in their annual collections.
During the Second World War they were part of the uniforms of British officers, in the mid 50's the last century entered the everyday men's closet, and in the 1990s, with an easy pitch of Princess Diana, who liked to wear them for a walk with her children, gained popularity among girls. With a hood and stand-up collar, monochrome and with prints, made of fine cashmere and dense wool.
What is a duffle coat, who and when it was invented and sewn, and by what signs you can recognize the right model. tell us what options to bet on, if you want to add them to your closet.
A duffle coat is a warm half-coat made of coarse, dense woolen fabric with a hood and an overlapping basque. It is sewn mainly from dense wool, although modern models are produced from other materials. The main design element that distinguishes this product from other types of outerwear are original buttons made in the form of elongated sticks, wooden or horn. Among all the outerwear models that will be popular this season, one of the brightest microtrends will be stylish duffle coats, with bone buttons of unusual shapes and accent loops on the front.
One of the most recognizable casual closet items, the duffle coat embodies the noble traditions of British fashion and has been a true classic for decades. For all the cyclical and capricious nature of fashion, the duffle coat can be found in the closet of men and women, with many fashion designers including them in their annual collections.
During the Second World War they were part of the uniforms of British officers, in the mid 50's the last century entered the everyday men's closet, and in the 1990s, with an easy pitch of Princess Diana, who liked to wear them for a walk with her children, gained popularity among girls. With a hood and stand-up collar, monochrome and with prints, made of fine cashmere and dense wool.
What is a duffle coat, who and when it was invented and sewn, and by what signs you can recognize the right model. tell us what options to bet on, if you want to add them to your closet.
History of the Duffle Coat?
Duffle coat originates not at all from the fashion industry.
The birthplace of this popular today model is a small Belgian town Dafle (Dufel), which became famous in Europe in the XVII century due to the production of camel's hair of the same name. The locals sold the warm fabric and made it into clothes for fishermen. Long jackets with a button at the neck and a loose hood, under which a cap was worn, perfectly protected sailors from cold winds, rain, and wet snow.
During the First World War, John Partridge's factory supplied duffle coats to sailors and officers in the Royal Navy. In a constant clash with the elements, the coat took on its classic look of a single-breasted, straight-cut, three-quarter-length coat. For protection from frost in the northern latitudes, tartan was used for the inner lining, making the sentries freezing on watch happy with two thick layers of impervious and waterproof wool. The standard buttons were replaced by oblong sleeves, which allowed the coat to be buttoned and unbuttoned without removing the mittens.
At the same time, the hood had to be enlarged so that sailors could put it directly on the cap. The practicality and durability of the fabric were on the top, besides, the fashion designers chose a successful style - the clothes were not at all restricted in movement, were dense (but not too heavy to cause discomfort), and very warm.
The military appreciated the durability and functionality of duffle coats, incorporating them into army and navy uniforms for many years. Traveling in these unusual coats around the world, the British military helped to increase their recognition in different countries.
The duffle coat drew particular attention during World War II from famed British military commander Field Marshal Bernard Law Montgomery, who never seemed to part with it. Montgomery was featured in his coat on the front pages of European newspapers and magazines. Because of his love for this model, it was long called in Britain the "monty coat".
In the post-war years, produced in excess duffle coats were not demanded by the armed forces. Surplus army dufflecoats were supplied cheaply to military stores, and from there to ordinary stores, and they began to be worn by civilians.
The rise in popularity of the duffle coat was facilitated by cinema. The adventurous 1953 film "The Cruel Sea" about the events of World War II received several Oscar nominations and won the hearts of the audience, as well as the images of brave heroes who fought for the Atlantic. The famous couturier Yves Saint Laurent joined the fans of the movie and turned the dufflecoat into a symbol of social protest.
The bohemian look of the classic coat was especially favored by European intellectuals and creative circles, as well as anti-bourgeois rebels and radicals. Duffle coats were worn by the Beatles, Rolling Stones, and many other celebrities. Today, this model is a must-have in the urban closet and an icon of the casual look.
The birthplace of this popular today model is a small Belgian town Dafle (Dufel), which became famous in Europe in the XVII century due to the production of camel's hair of the same name. The locals sold the warm fabric and made it into clothes for fishermen. Long jackets with a button at the neck and a loose hood, under which a cap was worn, perfectly protected sailors from cold winds, rain, and wet snow.
During the First World War, John Partridge's factory supplied duffle coats to sailors and officers in the Royal Navy. In a constant clash with the elements, the coat took on its classic look of a single-breasted, straight-cut, three-quarter-length coat. For protection from frost in the northern latitudes, tartan was used for the inner lining, making the sentries freezing on watch happy with two thick layers of impervious and waterproof wool. The standard buttons were replaced by oblong sleeves, which allowed the coat to be buttoned and unbuttoned without removing the mittens.
At the same time, the hood had to be enlarged so that sailors could put it directly on the cap. The practicality and durability of the fabric were on the top, besides, the fashion designers chose a successful style - the clothes were not at all restricted in movement, were dense (but not too heavy to cause discomfort), and very warm.
The military appreciated the durability and functionality of duffle coats, incorporating them into army and navy uniforms for many years. Traveling in these unusual coats around the world, the British military helped to increase their recognition in different countries.
The duffle coat drew particular attention during World War II from famed British military commander Field Marshal Bernard Law Montgomery, who never seemed to part with it. Montgomery was featured in his coat on the front pages of European newspapers and magazines. Because of his love for this model, it was long called in Britain the "monty coat".
In the post-war years, produced in excess duffle coats were not demanded by the armed forces. Surplus army dufflecoats were supplied cheaply to military stores, and from there to ordinary stores, and they began to be worn by civilians.
The rise in popularity of the duffle coat was facilitated by cinema. The adventurous 1953 film "The Cruel Sea" about the events of World War II received several Oscar nominations and won the hearts of the audience, as well as the images of brave heroes who fought for the Atlantic. The famous couturier Yves Saint Laurent joined the fans of the movie and turned the dufflecoat into a symbol of social protest.
The bohemian look of the classic coat was especially favored by European intellectuals and creative circles, as well as anti-bourgeois rebels and radicals. Duffle coats were worn by the Beatles, Rolling Stones, and many other celebrities. Today, this model is a must-have in the urban closet and an icon of the casual look.
What Are They Made From?
As discussed here, the duffle coat was named after the fabric from which it was originally made. This fabric is associated with the dense and stiff materials made in the city of Duffel. Note that Duffel fabric is used for branded sports bags, but despite its name, duffle coats were never made from this material. Instead, similar heavy, double-sided, double-sided boiled wool fabrics with a twill structure were used.
From 1900, the Navy Department required all materials used to be of British origin, so only domestic fabric was used. The original color for sailor suits was beige, then began to use protective and coffee colors, but in the navy, this coloring was not used until the thirties. In the fifties, navy blue and other colors became popular among the civilian public, and today you can find jackets in almost different shades, including scarlet, orange, dark green, gray, pale...
In 1950, the Englishman Harold Morris and his wife Frieda, who had their production of overalls for workers, bought surplus fabric from the British Navy along with already finished duffle coats. They planned to sell the products in the shortest possible time, as the demand, in the post-war period, was quite good for coats of this kind.
After a while, the demand for overalls dropped. Harold and Frieda's enterprise was retrained to produce fashionable clothes for men and women. At this time, the brand Gloverall appeared, which is considered one of the best in the production of English duffle coats. Instead of coarse wool, Gloverall started using a fabric called loden. This is a great fabric for outerwear, as it is made from felted wool (analogous to felt) and has water-repellent properties.
With the rise in popularity in the 50s and 60s, duffle coats began to be sewn in a wide variety of fabrics. At that time, synthetic fabrics were rare, so they were sewn from camel's hair, tweed, and even gabardine.
From 1900, the Navy Department required all materials used to be of British origin, so only domestic fabric was used. The original color for sailor suits was beige, then began to use protective and coffee colors, but in the navy, this coloring was not used until the thirties. In the fifties, navy blue and other colors became popular among the civilian public, and today you can find jackets in almost different shades, including scarlet, orange, dark green, gray, pale...
In 1950, the Englishman Harold Morris and his wife Frieda, who had their production of overalls for workers, bought surplus fabric from the British Navy along with already finished duffle coats. They planned to sell the products in the shortest possible time, as the demand, in the post-war period, was quite good for coats of this kind.
After a while, the demand for overalls dropped. Harold and Frieda's enterprise was retrained to produce fashionable clothes for men and women. At this time, the brand Gloverall appeared, which is considered one of the best in the production of English duffle coats. Instead of coarse wool, Gloverall started using a fabric called loden. This is a great fabric for outerwear, as it is made from felted wool (analogous to felt) and has water-repellent properties.
With the rise in popularity in the 50s and 60s, duffle coats began to be sewn in a wide variety of fabrics. At that time, synthetic fabrics were rare, so they were sewn from camel's hair, tweed, and even gabardine.
Duffle Coat Details & Characteristics
The original duffle coats were characterized by a straight and even spacious silhouette with a length of ¾. Their main purpose was to keep warm and not constrict movements, while the floors did not get wet from constant movement on a wet deck. Modern models are narrower and can be both short and long, depending on the season for which they are designed.
The main detail that distinguishes the duffle coat from all other types of coats is the hood. Its size was dictated by the requirements of the naval uniform - it had to be worn over the midshipman's coat. So that the large and deep hood kept warm and did not fall under strong gusts of wind, a special clasp was made on the neck. Thanks to it, there is no need to additionally insulate the neck with a scarf.
The oblong wooden or bone buttons are the most distinctive feature of the Dufflecoat from all others. Originally a cord of textile fiber was used in conjunction with wooden buttons. Gloverall replaced them with more refined fang-shaped ones in 1954. Today, most buttons are made of plastic. Traditionally for the British Royal Navy, 3 buttons with lace were made; later a fourth button was added. Fang buttons are said to be more comfortable than buttons or round buttons. In my opinion, this is a matter of taste, but fangs certainly look very stylish on duffle coats.
Other elements of the duffle coat
Collar closure on a classic duffle. Similar to the trench coat, the duffle coat has a two-button closure under the collar. There is no doubt that your neck will be protected from the cold and wind.
Shoulder pads on the duffle coat. All coat models have additional shoulder pads sewn on, which serve to repel water and prevent premature wear in the shoulder area.
Patch pockets. It has two types of patch pockets: with flaps on top of the pocket and without a flap.
Lining. The first duffle coats did not have lining until 1954. Gloverall added lining to their collections. Interestingly, the original duffle had a strap on the inside of the coat, which allowed the coat to be secured to the legs. After they started making the lining, the strap was removed.
The main detail that distinguishes the duffle coat from all other types of coats is the hood. Its size was dictated by the requirements of the naval uniform - it had to be worn over the midshipman's coat. So that the large and deep hood kept warm and did not fall under strong gusts of wind, a special clasp was made on the neck. Thanks to it, there is no need to additionally insulate the neck with a scarf.
The oblong wooden or bone buttons are the most distinctive feature of the Dufflecoat from all others. Originally a cord of textile fiber was used in conjunction with wooden buttons. Gloverall replaced them with more refined fang-shaped ones in 1954. Today, most buttons are made of plastic. Traditionally for the British Royal Navy, 3 buttons with lace were made; later a fourth button was added. Fang buttons are said to be more comfortable than buttons or round buttons. In my opinion, this is a matter of taste, but fangs certainly look very stylish on duffle coats.
Other elements of the duffle coat
Collar closure on a classic duffle. Similar to the trench coat, the duffle coat has a two-button closure under the collar. There is no doubt that your neck will be protected from the cold and wind.
Shoulder pads on the duffle coat. All coat models have additional shoulder pads sewn on, which serve to repel water and prevent premature wear in the shoulder area.
Patch pockets. It has two types of patch pockets: with flaps on top of the pocket and without a flap.
Lining. The first duffle coats did not have lining until 1954. Gloverall added lining to their collections. Interestingly, the original duffle had a strap on the inside of the coat, which allowed the coat to be secured to the legs. After they started making the lining, the strap was removed.
How to Style a Duffle Coat?
Duffle coats have their place in the 2023 trends, they are not as conservative and prim as classic models, and at the same time, not as plain as casual jackets. Interestingly, the coat was introduced into the women's closet by Yves Saint Laurent. Previously, the coat was worn only by men. Therefore, it combines grace and a certain strictness. It can be styled with almost any clothes. The duffle coat looks harmoniously with any item in a woman's closet.
First of all, it is things frankly sporty and masculine style: wide jeans of free cut and rough or sporty shoes. These models are perfectly combined with feminine things in casual and urban styles, and those who like fashion mixes can safely experiment with things in the style of "glam".
If you plan to wear a duffle coat with dresses or skirts, make sure that they are made of dense fabric - summer "flyaway" here will be inappropriate.
Jeans and pants can be anything from skinny to mom fit - it all depends on what image you want to create: an elegant English lady or, on the contrary, to add a light student madness to everyday life. If you want to experiment, wear leggings and leather pants under your coat.
Voluminous sweaters and cardigans are probably the coziest options for autumn. Give preference to knitted pieces, they look the best in an ensemble with a duffle coat.
The duffle coat and plaid print are made for each other. Choose plaid shirts, wool dresses, long sleeves, or separate accessories. Since this coat came to fashion from Britain, look out for English plaid for a more authentic look.
Is it possible to combine a duffle coat and sports-inspired clothing? Surprisingly, yes - sweatshirts, sweatshirts, and even joggers can help to lower the degree of severity. The balance that the combination of a straight coat and sports elements creates forms a great casual look. Only sports shoes or loafers are not allowed, it is better to put them aside for another ensemble.
What shoes to wear with a duffle coat?
Shoes in a sporty style under a coat of this cut will not fit. Another stylish "no" is stilettos. A high heel violates the geometry of the image and in principle is not very suitable for demi-seasonal and winter outings. It is better to give preference to booties, bright rubber boots without print, rough mountain boots, and, of course, high jockey boots on a low stroke.
What kind of bag to wear with a duffle coat?
Duffle coat looks unfavorable with small women's handbags, they simply get lost against their background. "No" will also have to say clutches "hard" forms, bags, shoppers, and wicker handbags - they are not suitable for the season and look inappropriate. Stylists recommend choosing light voluminous bags with a strap over the shoulder, such as the famous English satchels. Small leather backpacks are perfectly combined with a duffle coat.
First of all, it is things frankly sporty and masculine style: wide jeans of free cut and rough or sporty shoes. These models are perfectly combined with feminine things in casual and urban styles, and those who like fashion mixes can safely experiment with things in the style of "glam".
If you plan to wear a duffle coat with dresses or skirts, make sure that they are made of dense fabric - summer "flyaway" here will be inappropriate.
Jeans and pants can be anything from skinny to mom fit - it all depends on what image you want to create: an elegant English lady or, on the contrary, to add a light student madness to everyday life. If you want to experiment, wear leggings and leather pants under your coat.
Voluminous sweaters and cardigans are probably the coziest options for autumn. Give preference to knitted pieces, they look the best in an ensemble with a duffle coat.
The duffle coat and plaid print are made for each other. Choose plaid shirts, wool dresses, long sleeves, or separate accessories. Since this coat came to fashion from Britain, look out for English plaid for a more authentic look.
Is it possible to combine a duffle coat and sports-inspired clothing? Surprisingly, yes - sweatshirts, sweatshirts, and even joggers can help to lower the degree of severity. The balance that the combination of a straight coat and sports elements creates forms a great casual look. Only sports shoes or loafers are not allowed, it is better to put them aside for another ensemble.
What shoes to wear with a duffle coat?
Shoes in a sporty style under a coat of this cut will not fit. Another stylish "no" is stilettos. A high heel violates the geometry of the image and in principle is not very suitable for demi-seasonal and winter outings. It is better to give preference to booties, bright rubber boots without print, rough mountain boots, and, of course, high jockey boots on a low stroke.
What kind of bag to wear with a duffle coat?
Duffle coat looks unfavorable with small women's handbags, they simply get lost against their background. "No" will also have to say clutches "hard" forms, bags, shoppers, and wicker handbags - they are not suitable for the season and look inappropriate. Stylists recommend choosing light voluminous bags with a strap over the shoulder, such as the famous English satchels. Small leather backpacks are perfectly combined with a duffle coat.
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