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What Is Plaid Fabric?

by Shunzhi Nie 12 Jun 2024

How often we see in stores, on catwalks, on social media, already familiar prints and patterns on fabrics, but we don't know what they are called! Without realizing it, we say “plaid fabric” when referring to various patterns. It is believed that the invention and further popularization of this type of pattern on fabric refers to Scotland since it was used by men in skirts and clothes for hunting.

Today, the pattern is used to make a variety of things: from bedding to designer scarves. Finding a more universal pattern for clothing than plaid is quite difficult. With different variations of plaid patterns, you have definitely encountered. You may have plaid items in your closet or you may even be reading this article right now sitting in cozy plaid pajamas. Plaid is back in fashion almost every fall because it is firmly associated with coziness, sitting by the fireplace, and walking through the cool woods. Plaid suits almost everyone, if not everyone. It's formal enough to be worn to the office and relaxed enough to be part of an everyday outfit.

Do you know what tartan, argyle, broken plaid, dogtooth, houndstooth, pepita, or Vichy are? If not, you're all ahead of the game! In order not to get confused in the labyrinth of fabrics marked into rhombuses and squares, we have compiled a detailed guide for you. Let's get to know more about plaid fabrics...

What Is Plaid Fabric?

The word plaid means a checkered ornament. It is formed by the intersection of vertical and horizontal stripes of different widths and colors, as well as a combination of rectangular areas filled with diagonal lines. It is important to know that the ornament is not applied to the fabric, but is created from multicolored dyed threads using twill weaving (a type of weave in which the characteristic oblique stripes forming a welt are clearly visible on the fabric).

A Brief History of Plaid

The plaid pattern is more than just a clothing design element; it's an entire history intertwined with culture and fashion throughout the ages. From Scottish tartans to modern fashion house collections, plaid has come to symbolize both tradition and innovation in the fashion world.

The process of putting on a kilt resembles a ritual dance. The warrior literally rolls on the ground, winding strips of cloth in a strictly defined sequence. The kilt appeared at the beginning of the XVIII century, and before that, the ancestors of the Scots (Gauls) wore long linen shirts, over which they wore warm woolen capes of plaid fabric - plaids. This pattern, fastened at the waist with a belt, served as a prototype of the kilt. In Scotland and now there is a “big kilt”, which is a plaid, tucked into the belt.

The shortened kilt, according to one legend, was invented in 1730 by Thomas Rawlinson, an Englishman who owned a metallurgical shop and decided to help the Scots working for him. They were too hot in their large traditional plaids, and Thomas suggested that they cut off the top part of the plaid, leaving only the bottom part. And to use the remaining top strip of cloth as scarves. This is how the large kilt became a small one, which was a cape that covered the lower part of the body from the waist to the knees.

After a while, there was an industrial revolution in good old England. Quite quickly appeared several factories producing tartan. The most famous of them was the factory William Wilson & Sons of Bannockburn, founded in 1765. It was this factory that supplied the Scottish army with tartans.

Since then, English society has been obsessed with the checkered print. The fashion for tartan went so far that even Queen Victoria and Prince Albert created a new kind of tartan and used it to decorate their palace in Balmoral.

It was only in the 70s that informals (punks) were able to change this view of the plaid. They brazenly appropriated the traditional plaid coloring, making it a symbol of rebellion and militancy. It was a kind of challenge to everything prim and puritanical.

Nevertheless, it was the punks who contributed to the triumphant revival of the cage in the clothing of the common people. The aristocrats were outraged, but it was in a way a return to the roots, to the original masculinity of the tartans worn by the Scottish Highlanders. Everyone loved the cage, from cowboys of the Wild West (a cowgirl is a plaid shirt with patch pockets) to freedom-loving Canadian lumberjacks who appreciate everything strong, solid, and reliable.

It is also impossible not to mention the preppy style (preppy), which took its origin from the school uniforms for pupils of prestigious educational institutions. In the XIX century, such school uniforms made of tartan began to be sewn in Japan. Nowadays Japanese teenage schoolgirls, who are weary of excess adrenaline and want to escape from the boring size society, wear plaid miniskirts, thus showing a rebellious spirit. It has even become a separate style trend in modern street fashion.
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Types of Modern Plaid Fabrics

Every time you choose a plaid shirt or dress, you unwittingly become part of an ancient history that began long before global fashion trends. From Celtic tribes to fashion runways, this pattern has remained a perennial favorite, and its variety and importance have only increased over time. This fabric never goes out of style, and each type of plaid has its unique history and significance.

Tartan
Of course, tartan is famous thanks to Scottish kilts: “tear tan” translates as “color of the terrain”, and this is not at all lyrical poetics, but the most practical reality - Scottish clans dyed sheep's wool for kilts with natural dyes. Some used seaweed for brown, some used alder bark for black, some used blueberries for blue, and since different parts of Scotland used different dyes, the coloring of the tartan was a clear indication of where the clan came from. So it's no surprise that there are a huge number of varieties of tartan, each with its name.

Black Watch
One of the most famous tartans is the military tartan Black watch, which translates to “black watch”. In 1739, George II created this special regiment, which spent the next 270 years guarding the interests of the British Crown. During these long years, the Black Watch fought 164 battles, each with distinction. Today, any of us can touch history by opting for this noble pattern of deep rich tones.

Burberry
In 1924, a plaid pattern appeared on the lining of trenchcoats of the famous British brand Burberry, which is now unmistakably recognized by any fashionista. The print consists of four colors: black, white, sandy, and red. Its creation was inspired by the traditional ornament of English plaids. Burberry's cage was named Nova Check.

Professor's (university) plaid
A fine plaid pattern in muted beige and brown combined with a turtleneck and corduroy pants is a textbook image of an intellectual and the embodiment of preppy style. A timeless classic that never goes out of fashion, an easy way to give yourself a solid and academic look, especially in combination with glasses, not for nothing is often used by various kinds of consultants.

Glencheck
This understated pattern appeared in the 19th century as a variation of the Countess of Seafield's ancestral tartan. The Countess used to dress her huntsmen in glencheck and it was during another hunting trip that Edward VII, Prince of Wales first saw it. The royal person was so fond of this plaid that he asked to make him a suit of similar fabric, and thanks to the prince's unflagging affection for this pattern, the nickname “Prince of Wales” became fixed for Glenchek. The classic glencheck is characterized by an achromatic color scheme, the main colors used in this pattern are white and black or gray.

Vichy
The Vichy design is straight from the warm French Provence. This extremely simple type of cage was invented by local craftsmen in 1850 in the town of Vichy. The pattern is a small cage, mostly of two colors, most often red-white or blue-white. It is noteworthy that the French themselves appreciated the invention low - the pattern was used for tablecloths and napkins. But in America, the “Vichy” check drove everyone crazy - in the 50s Brigitte Bardot appeared on the cover of ELLE magazine in a dress with a puffy skirt made of white and pink check fabric, which marked the beginning of the triumphal march of “Vichy” through the closets of fashionistas around the world.

Chicken foot
If at the sight of this pattern, you are ready to say “Chanel”, but we have to interrupt you! Chanel, of course, made its contribution to the popularization of this ornament, but its progenitors were... all the same Scots! In its modern form “chicken foot” appeared in the XIX century, formed based on border tartan. You can also meet the name “dog's tooth”, but, as a rule, this name refers to the pattern, if it is depicted noticeably larger than the classic version. This peculiar name is justified by the fact that the pattern resembles the front fangs of a dog or chicken footprints.

Pepita
Many people confuse “pepita” and “chicken foot” as they are indeed similar at a superficial glance, but are significantly different. “Pepita”, named after the Spanish dancer known by the nickname Pepita de Oliva, consists of small squares with small “curls” at the corners.
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  • Green Check
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What's the Difference Between Plaid and Flannel?

Coziness, comfort, and warmth are the first things that come to mind when you hear the word “plaid” or “flannel”. Soft baby diapers, warming shirts, pajamas, blankets, and home textiles - you can see this fleecy material everywhere. People mistakenly think that these fabrics are the same. At first glance, they are similar to each other, but there are differences between them that many people don't even realize.

Some things go hand in hand. Plaid and flannel go perfectly together. People conflate the terms plaid and flannel because they are related. Knowing the difference between the two can help people have good stylish clothes and still feel comfortable.

So what are the main differences between plaid and flannel?

Plaid is a pattern of intersecting vertical and horizontal lines in different colors, and flannel is a fabric made of wool or cotton.
Plaid can be found in a variety of fabrics, including flannel, and flannel can be found in a variety of patterns, including plaid.
Plaid is associated with Scottish culture, and flannel is associated with outdoor activities such as camping and hiking.

Uses for Plaid Fabric

Plaid is a universal print that is used for sewing outerwear and home clothes, summer and holiday outfits, hats, and accessories. The drawing looks original on bedspreads, plaids, tablecloths, and napkins. Umbrellas and purses, suitcases, and handbags look stylish in plaid.

Fabrics with plaid harmoniously combine with solid-colored fabrics, selected in tone. Extravagant look combinations with lace, leather, suede, and satin. Accessories to the products are selected, focusing on the style. It can be buttons, buttons, laces, or zippers.

Designers offer different variants of plaid skirts, dresses, pants, coats, and jackets . Extravagant and cute look both straight and flared models. With skillful cuts from the material in the cage are elegant fitted products.

Plaid is a popular and popular pattern reproduced on the textile fabric. A wide range of products with such a print shows that the ornament does not go out of fashion. He continues to please fans with his diversity of different types of fabric.
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