What Is Merino Wool?
29 Dec 2023
Let's start with the place of origin and the definition of the sheep breed itself - Merinos. The special breed of sheep - merinos - has an interesting history. Spanish herdsmen bred this breed in the distant 13th century and, for five centuries, preserved it, not allowing breeding in other places. Their exportation was even punishable by death. In the 18th century, Spain lost its power and was defeated by the British. Only then were they able to export a few sheep to other European countries, as well as to Australia, which today is the largest producer of merino wool. Sheep breeding was elevated to a prized art. Merino was protected and valued above all other breeds, and exporting it outside of Spain could be punishable by death.
Merino sheep is a special breed of sheep, the value of which is in its fine, soft, and elastic merino wool. It is merino wool that has been widely known and recognized worldwide at the level of fashion houses. Merino wool is a reference material that is widely used in the manufacture of casual and outdoor clothing. Light, warm, and incredibly comfortable clothes made of this fabric are gladly worn by children and adults - from office workers to fans of extreme hobbies. What special things have couturiers and world brands found in this seemingly simple natural material? It's all about the unique symbiosis of nature and the breed of sheep. To clearly understand this issue, we must touch on geography, biology, chemistry, and even physics. Let's talk about merino wool: it is the wool of what animal, its properties and advantages, what indicator characterizes the state of merino wool, and where the material is used.
Merino sheep is a special breed of sheep, the value of which is in its fine, soft, and elastic merino wool. It is merino wool that has been widely known and recognized worldwide at the level of fashion houses. Merino wool is a reference material that is widely used in the manufacture of casual and outdoor clothing. Light, warm, and incredibly comfortable clothes made of this fabric are gladly worn by children and adults - from office workers to fans of extreme hobbies. What special things have couturiers and world brands found in this seemingly simple natural material? It's all about the unique symbiosis of nature and the breed of sheep. To clearly understand this issue, we must touch on geography, biology, chemistry, and even physics. Let's talk about merino wool: it is the wool of what animal, its properties and advantages, what indicator characterizes the state of merino wool, and where the material is used.
What Exactly Is Merino Wool?
Merinos are a breed of fine-fleece sheep characterized by high-quality combed merino wool. They were bred in Asia Minor, then made their way to the Mediterranean, and later spread around the world - mainly through the colonies of the British Empire. This is partly why the largest population of Merinos today is concentrated in Australia, New Zealand, and Tasmania, where they were introduced in the late 18th century. It was bred by Spanish cattle breeders back in the XIII century, but for a long time, it was forbidden for export. Only in 1723 did this breed of sheep export begin, and then in very limited quantities.
The largest population of Merinos is concentrated in Australia and the Southern Alps of New Zealand, with their characteristic variable climate - up to +35 °C in summer and -20 °C in winter. Through long-term breeding, New Zealand farmers have developed sheep with the lowest hair fineness (thickness) of only 14.5-20 microns compared to 25-40 microns for conventional sheep's wool. The thin, light, long wool keeps the animals cool on hot summer days and helps them maintain a constant body temperature when the thermometer drops to minus values. In a word, to survive where other animals cannot. An important characteristic of merino wool is a slight twist of the fibers. This makes it possible to produce yarn with a smooth surface that does not irritate human skin.
The largest population of Merinos is concentrated in Australia and the Southern Alps of New Zealand, with their characteristic variable climate - up to +35 °C in summer and -20 °C in winter. Through long-term breeding, New Zealand farmers have developed sheep with the lowest hair fineness (thickness) of only 14.5-20 microns compared to 25-40 microns for conventional sheep's wool. The thin, light, long wool keeps the animals cool on hot summer days and helps them maintain a constant body temperature when the thermometer drops to minus values. In a word, to survive where other animals cannot. An important characteristic of merino wool is a slight twist of the fibers. This makes it possible to produce yarn with a smooth surface that does not irritate human skin.
How Is Merino Wool Made?
The merino wool is only taken from the lower back of merino sheep. Only there does it meet all the requirements. The best yarns are handspun. Wool yarns are classified into woolmark (natural) and pure new wool. In the first case, no more than 7% of impurities are allowed, while in the second case, the yarns are produced strictly without impurities. After the animal's hair has been clipped, it is cleaned of debris and insects. This is also done manually. The use of chemicals can have a detrimental effect on the therapeutic properties. Next, the fibers are combed out several times to separate the down and remove the pluck. Once the model is ready, the spinning process begins.
The best Australian merino yarn is made in Italy, the home of luxury fabrics. Previously, merino wool production was built exclusively on manual labor, but now all processes are automated. Such yarn is called 100% merino wool. Specially configured knitting machines spin by knitting weave. If other methods are used, the yarn is looser and coarser. It can be used as an upholstery material or for making plaids.
The best Australian merino yarn is made in Italy, the home of luxury fabrics. Previously, merino wool production was built exclusively on manual labor, but now all processes are automated. Such yarn is called 100% merino wool. Specially configured knitting machines spin by knitting weave. If other methods are used, the yarn is looser and coarser. It can be used as an upholstery material or for making plaids.
What Are the Different Types of Merino Wool?
Not all merino wool is the same. The different living conditions of the sheep create differences. The place of grazing affects the thickness of the fiber itself and its strength. In addition to weather conditions, age, and housing conditions also impact. But the most important characteristic is the breed itself.
Australian farmers have bred a type of merino wool whose wool quality meets the highest standards according to the Australian Wool Corporation classification and has different hair thicknesses. Thus, the raw material can have a cross-sectional hair diameter within 14-24 microns, while ordinary sheep give wool with a diameter of 30-35 microns. How do we determine the thickness by name? There is a clear gradation of merino wool:
Strong Merino Wool
This wool belongs to the largest breed of sheep, whose wool is denser, thicker, coarse, and beige. This breed's breeding is unsuitable for humid climates, as their wool quickly becomes heavy and soiled when wet. Such merino wool is used for the manufacture of relatively inexpensive knitwear. When synthetic fibers such as acrylic and polyester are added, a fabric is obtained for furniture upholstery.
Medium Merino Wool
This merino wool is produced by sheep more suited to dry climates. They are characterized by creases in the neck and a thick wool of white color. Fabric from this type of raw material is used to make suiting fabrics and knitted fabrics.
Fine Merino Wool
Sheep of this breed are not so large, without folds. They can live in more humid climates because they are better adapted to rain and cool weather. Their fleece makes a strong, soft yarn for sewing outerwear and better knitwear. It is the most common variety of merino wool.
Superfine Merino Wool
The thickness of the merino wool hairs is close to perfect. This type produces fine merino yarn.
Ultrafine Merino Wool
Only a special breed of fine-fleece sheep gives this quality of merino wool. It is sheared from the withers of young lambs, making it the finest, softest, and whitest wool. Its uniqueness is that it does not irritate the skin at all, which is why it is used for sewing children's clothes. Premium yarn is obtained when natural silk, cashmere, and cotton are added to the composition. It is used by fashion houses to make women's and men's clothing.
Australian farmers have bred a type of merino wool whose wool quality meets the highest standards according to the Australian Wool Corporation classification and has different hair thicknesses. Thus, the raw material can have a cross-sectional hair diameter within 14-24 microns, while ordinary sheep give wool with a diameter of 30-35 microns. How do we determine the thickness by name? There is a clear gradation of merino wool:
Strong Merino Wool
This wool belongs to the largest breed of sheep, whose wool is denser, thicker, coarse, and beige. This breed's breeding is unsuitable for humid climates, as their wool quickly becomes heavy and soiled when wet. Such merino wool is used for the manufacture of relatively inexpensive knitwear. When synthetic fibers such as acrylic and polyester are added, a fabric is obtained for furniture upholstery.
Medium Merino Wool
This merino wool is produced by sheep more suited to dry climates. They are characterized by creases in the neck and a thick wool of white color. Fabric from this type of raw material is used to make suiting fabrics and knitted fabrics.
Fine Merino Wool
Sheep of this breed are not so large, without folds. They can live in more humid climates because they are better adapted to rain and cool weather. Their fleece makes a strong, soft yarn for sewing outerwear and better knitwear. It is the most common variety of merino wool.
Superfine Merino Wool
The thickness of the merino wool hairs is close to perfect. This type produces fine merino yarn.
Ultrafine Merino Wool
Only a special breed of fine-fleece sheep gives this quality of merino wool. It is sheared from the withers of young lambs, making it the finest, softest, and whitest wool. Its uniqueness is that it does not irritate the skin at all, which is why it is used for sewing children's clothes. Premium yarn is obtained when natural silk, cashmere, and cotton are added to the composition. It is used by fashion houses to make women's and men's clothing.
Merino Wool's Benefits and Disadvantages
Benefits of Merino Wool:
Thermal insulation. If the fabric used to sew your clothes includes merino wool, you don't have to worry about changing weather. The merino wool fibers perfectly regulate body temperature in cold and warm weather. Merino fibers are even included in blanket fillings. Any sweater made of such wool will become an indispensable item in the closet for the year.
Hygroscopicity. Products made from the merino wool of these elite sheep perfectly absorb moisture while keeping the skin dry. Due to the unique structure of scales on the hair's surface, sweat and dirt do not penetrate deep into the weave and are easily removed due to the friction of hairs against each other. This is why merino yarn does not absorb odors, is easily ventilated, and stays clean and dry longer.
Protection from ultraviolet radiation. An important quality of modern clothing is UV protection, which prevents you from getting sunburns. This quality becomes especially important in the tropics and highlands, where radiation intensity increases greatly. And even in this aspect, Merino Wool has everything in order - its products are characterized by a high UPF factor - from 25 to 50+. You can safely walk on a sun-drenched glacier in a long-sleeved thermal T-shirt and a soft wool face buff.
High hygienic properties and antibacterial effect. These include an antibacterial effect. Because the merino wool is sheared from live healthy sheep, it is naturally coated with a special protein. It contains amino acids, including creatine, which provides a high antibacterial effect, preventing microorganisms from multiplying. And the natural wax lanolin, with which each curl is covered, makes the cloth from the wool of these sheep, which is also healing. Lanolin heals wounds, soothes irritation, and softens the skin.
Eco-friendliness. Merino wool is a 100% natural renewable resource, which, in addition, does not need special utilization conditions, as it is a fully biodegradable material. All synthetic fibers are produced based on petroleum products; not all can be effectively recycled. And in the natural environment, they will take decades to decompose. A thermal T-shirt made of 100% Merino wool will take only six months - its fibers will serve as food for many microorganisms living in the soil. But before you dispose of it, the clothes will last many years.
Uniquely healthy. Australian and New Zealand sheep wool is great for children and anyone with health problems such as allergies, bronchial asthma, dermatitis, and eczema. Fine hairs of merino wool, covered with lanolin, have a massage effect and improve blood circulation, and the chemical composition moisturizes the skin and makes it soft.
Disadvantages of Merino Wool:
High price. The average market price of this yarn overtakes other popular yarns. To be fair, it should be noted that merino wool has always been highly valued and unavailable to everyone. Adding other fibers allows you to optimize the price of the yarn.
Merino yarn is not as warm as regular wool. Yes, merino wool is also a wool yarn, but the yarn is very smooth, so it blows well. That's why they prefer traditional wool to our popular Merino wool abroad. Yes, wool is prickly, but warmth is more important than beauty for foreigners. How to make a merino piece warm? - Knit from several yarns or insulate with a lining.
Thermal insulation. If the fabric used to sew your clothes includes merino wool, you don't have to worry about changing weather. The merino wool fibers perfectly regulate body temperature in cold and warm weather. Merino fibers are even included in blanket fillings. Any sweater made of such wool will become an indispensable item in the closet for the year.
Hygroscopicity. Products made from the merino wool of these elite sheep perfectly absorb moisture while keeping the skin dry. Due to the unique structure of scales on the hair's surface, sweat and dirt do not penetrate deep into the weave and are easily removed due to the friction of hairs against each other. This is why merino yarn does not absorb odors, is easily ventilated, and stays clean and dry longer.
Protection from ultraviolet radiation. An important quality of modern clothing is UV protection, which prevents you from getting sunburns. This quality becomes especially important in the tropics and highlands, where radiation intensity increases greatly. And even in this aspect, Merino Wool has everything in order - its products are characterized by a high UPF factor - from 25 to 50+. You can safely walk on a sun-drenched glacier in a long-sleeved thermal T-shirt and a soft wool face buff.
High hygienic properties and antibacterial effect. These include an antibacterial effect. Because the merino wool is sheared from live healthy sheep, it is naturally coated with a special protein. It contains amino acids, including creatine, which provides a high antibacterial effect, preventing microorganisms from multiplying. And the natural wax lanolin, with which each curl is covered, makes the cloth from the wool of these sheep, which is also healing. Lanolin heals wounds, soothes irritation, and softens the skin.
Eco-friendliness. Merino wool is a 100% natural renewable resource, which, in addition, does not need special utilization conditions, as it is a fully biodegradable material. All synthetic fibers are produced based on petroleum products; not all can be effectively recycled. And in the natural environment, they will take decades to decompose. A thermal T-shirt made of 100% Merino wool will take only six months - its fibers will serve as food for many microorganisms living in the soil. But before you dispose of it, the clothes will last many years.
Uniquely healthy. Australian and New Zealand sheep wool is great for children and anyone with health problems such as allergies, bronchial asthma, dermatitis, and eczema. Fine hairs of merino wool, covered with lanolin, have a massage effect and improve blood circulation, and the chemical composition moisturizes the skin and makes it soft.
Disadvantages of Merino Wool:
High price. The average market price of this yarn overtakes other popular yarns. To be fair, it should be noted that merino wool has always been highly valued and unavailable to everyone. Adding other fibers allows you to optimize the price of the yarn.
Merino yarn is not as warm as regular wool. Yes, merino wool is also a wool yarn, but the yarn is very smooth, so it blows well. That's why they prefer traditional wool to our popular Merino wool abroad. Yes, wool is prickly, but warmth is more important than beauty for foreigners. How to make a merino piece warm? - Knit from several yarns or insulate with a lining.
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