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What Is Houndstooth?

by LiWenshan 07 Nov 2023

We know this print as "houndstooth", the French as pied-de-poule, which means "chicken foot", the British call it houndstooth or "dog's tooth", and the Chinese have given it the poetic name "the pattern of a thousand birds". It seems that this pattern never goes out of fashion, returning to the catwalks again and again. The classic and universal houndstooth pattern is a pattern that never goes out of fashion. The pattern is created from the intersection of vertical and horizontal threads, traditionally black and white. It boasts not only many names but also an interesting history. Moreover, "houndstooth" is one of the oldest patterns known today. Despite its long existence, it is a stylish and colorful pattern that can still make an image a real fashion statement. The print has long been ranked as a classic, neutral pattern. Despite its rich history, it has not lost its relevance in modern clothing and interior design. Today it is used both in clothing, interior, and decor. Let's get acquainted with the history of the classic print together.

Houndstooth is the pattern that is most often found within the classic style. Perhaps for this reason, many girls still avoid it, not wanting to look too strict or old-fashioned. Nevertheless, although it is a rather complex, overloaded print, fashion designers today do not neglect it at all. Houndstooth print (or, as it is more often called "houndstooth") is a classic pattern, that was originally used for dense tweed fabric, and then moved into the category of fashion trends. The print has long been counted among the classic. Today, a variety of fabrics and surfaces are decorated with this print. This season this print is back in fashion and appears on jackets, dresses , coats, pants, and accessories such as handbags, high-heeled shoes, or scarves. On suits, jackets, and sweatshirts: the houndstooth print is back in the closets, both in its classic form and in a new reading. Every woman will find a closet item decorated with a houndstooth in which she will feel great! At a time when practicality and comfort became the actual trend, houndstooth print came back in fashion. This design looks beautiful on outerwear, business suits, classic outfits, and many other styles.

Houndstooth Origins

"Houndstooth" is a BC invention. "Houndstooth" is one of the oldest patterns known to mankind. The earliest example of a similar pattern is found on the Gerum cape, a piece of clothing found in Sweden in 1920. The exact origin of the cloak has not been established, but it is known to have been used somewhere between 360 and 100 BC.

At the turn of the 18th and 19th centuries, the "houndstooth" was widespread in Scotland. It was then called shepherd's wear. Shepherds chose for themselves clothes with a characteristic pattern not at all for fashion purposes: at a relatively short distance, the colors of the outfit merged, which gave the impression that the figure was far away. It is believed that it was the shepherd's cage that became the parent of the "houndstooth". Later, in the same Scotland, the shepherd's cage began to carry a certain coded message. Clothing with this print told others that you have adopted neutrality and do not belong to any of the Scottish clans, and therefore do not participate in clan wars. It turns out that this uncomplicated pattern allowed the Scots to keep themselves alive – twice already.

"The progenitor" of "houndstooth", shepherd's plaid, belongs to the family of traditional Scottish plaid fabrics. In the 1800s, the pattern was mainly found in the south of Scotland, near the Anglo-Saxon border, which is why it is also often referred to as "border tartan" in English. As the name suggests, shepherd's plaid is a rural pattern originally used by Scottish shepherds. According to John Telfer Dunbar's book Costumes of Scotland, shepherds wore clothing with this pattern for protective purposes, because at a distance the colors of the pattern merged and the silhouette appeared to be farther away than it actually was. The most recognizable piece of clothing with the shepherd's plaid pattern is the fleece plaid, which became popular in the 1820s among fashionable Scots, including poets Walter Scott, Robert Burns, and James Hogg.

Sadly, no one can say what the "goose's foot" was called in the dank Scottish lands during Roman times. But meticulous archaeologists have proved that even then it appeared on woolen fabrics made by local tribes. However, the remains of these fabrics were found in many Scandinavian burial grounds (obviously, they were trophies), and the ornament itself can be seen on British churches of the XII century and even in elements of Venetian architecture. In the 1920s, Scottish clans appropriated the shepherd's cage for themselves. Although the clans were hostile to outsiders wearing clothing with their patterns, the houndstooth remained a neutral choice. The pattern was not officially registered by any clan. Therefore, it is believed that the broken cage was popular among people who were not involved in clan wars.

In its modern form, the "hound's foot" was formalized only in the XIX century. Before that time it existed in the guise of its older brother, called border tartan (under this harsh name it is known to this day). By the way, its name came from the region, which was the border between Scotland and England, it was so-called - Border (Scots generally do not like to complicate their lives).

The term "houndstooth" was coined much later: the first mention of the word combination was found in 1925 in an Australian newspaper. Webster's Dictionary says that the concept was first used only in 1936. After many centuries, the "houndstooth" lost its utilitarian function and gained popularity among the upper class seeking to update their image. The pattern became a classic among Savile Row tailors creating casual wear for their clients. In those days, hunting and other outdoor activities were known as sports, and many Norfolk jackets were made from fabric with a goosefoot pattern. This example was followed by many Ready-to-Wear companies, such as Brooks Brothers, who began creating products with the same pattern.

How Is the Houndstooth Pattern Made?

Embroidery: One of the most common ways to create a houndstooth pattern on fabric is through embroidery. With the help of special needles and threads, you can create a beautiful ornament using simple crochet stitches. This method is labor-intensive, but the result justifies the time and effort.

Stamping: If you need to create many identical houndstooths quickly and without much effort, stamping is the perfect solution. This method of pattern-making uses special houndstooth-shaped stamps that are applied with paint or dye to the fabric. The stamps can be of different sizes and configurations, allowing you to create a variety of pattern variations.

Printing: Another popular way to create a houndstooth pattern on fabric is through printing. There are several printing methods including screen printing, digital printing, and sublimation printing. In this method, the pattern is transferred to the fabric using special equipment and dyes. The result is accurate and permanent.

These ways of creating a houndstooth pattern on fabric offer different realization options depending on your preferences and capabilities. The embroidery will suit those who appreciate handwork and originality, stamping - for those who want to make fast and mass-produced, and printing - for those who want an accurate and durable result.

How to wear Houndstooth?

With jeans
Straight or slightly tapered models, perhaps even with tucks or 8/9 length – that's what you need. You will get an image made up of contrast: the most casual thing and a jacket with a pattern, which for a long time was considered the prerogative of the royal family.

With pants
In fashion total bows, so it is worth trying to compose a set of top and bottom with the same print. Things can go both with the same and with different mesh sizes. The color scheme can also be played because today this ornament is produced in different colors. For example, it is worth trying to take the top with a traditional black and white pattern, and the bottom to pick it up with an unusual brown and black houndstooth. Or look for a long gray-pink jacket and complement it with loose pants with a print, as close to the canon as possible.

Having decided on the color, we move on to the recommendations on the choice. Pants with a houndstooth must be measured, and the process is likely to drag on for a long time. Finding pants that are not full, will be difficult. In this case, it is impossible to say in advance that the pattern with elements of this size will not visually add volume, as the property can disappear or appear due to the style, fabric, "correctness" of fit of a particular thing, and external data of a particular girl.

The only thing that can be said unequivocally: the size of the pattern of pants should be selected with the size of the pattern of the jacket and external data. If the hips are very large and need to balance the figure, then visually increasing the upper part of the torso will allow a larger and more expressive houndstooth on the jacket. If, on the contrary, you need to add volume to the buttocks and make the legs fuller, then the pattern on the pants should be larger or more expressive than the ornament of the jacket. Of much safer solutions - pants of black, gray and white shades. The first named shade is maximally neutral and therefore with a high probability will successfully fit into the image based on a jacket with a houndstooth. If the print is made not in the traditional white and black range, but in another, then you can simply pick up pants a few tones darker than the dominant color of the jacket.

With a skirt
There's nothing easier than matching a skirt to a houndstooth jacket in traditional colors. A black leather mini A-silhouette is suitable for a short jacket, and a white fabric straight shortened model is a solution for a long jacket. For a fitted jacket, especially if it comes with a belt, pick up a light puffy skirt, and for a jacket - a straight midi with a slit on the side. It is worth trying on the bottom and bright strong shade, for example, red.
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