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Why Cashmere Is so Expensive?

by 顺之 聂 28 Nov 2023

No other material can compare to it in terms of softness and tenderness. Everyone who has worn a cashmere sweater at least once can confirm that there is no softer and more pleasant material. It is synonymous with comfort, warmth, and pleasant sensations when wearing it, and contrary to popular belief - not only in winter. It can be said to be warmer than wool or more delicate than silk. Even for people far from fashion, the word "cashmere" is firmly associated with nobility and luxury, and translated into all languages means the same thing: precious, exquisite thread.

Cashmere bears all the hallmarks of the "modest charm of the bourgeoisie". It is as comfortable as the last of a custom-made shoe made by a renowned shoemaker. It is as reliable as a Swiss watch made at the oldest factory, as noble as the cut of a classic English suit, and it is consistently expensive. It is a unique, natural fiber, incredibly light, soft, and warm. Many people make the mistake of thinking that it is an expensive wool or well-dressed wool. But it isn't.

This material owes its name to the Indian state of Kashmir, where, as legend has it, it was first produced. In the Middle Ages and the Modern Age, when cashmere became extremely popular in Europe, even a shawl was a luxury available only to representatives of the highest aristocracy and royal houses.

A lot of time has passed since then, but there are still many ambiguities and sometimes even outright prejudices about this luxurious fabric. Some people are sure that cashmere even nowadays is prohibitively expensive, and some (yes, don't be surprised) believe that sweaters made of this warm fabric are a disposable item. So today we will dedicate a blog to this special fabric and tell you why this type of wool is so expensive.
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  • Dark Beige
  • Black
  • Chili red
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What Is Cashmere?

With the onset of the cold season, most of you want to wrap yourself in a cozy cardigan, a warm high-necked sweater, or a soft sweater. You should not deny yourself this pleasure, especially since the weather is unlikely to bring us unplanned warmth for the next five months.

It is strictly forbidden to save on this luxurious fabric. An expensive (in all senses) thing will serve faithfully and truthfully for more than one year and will warm you up at the most necessary moment. Not in vain the legendary Coco Chanel said: "Life is too short not to wear cashmere".

The term "cashmere" appeared in the XVI century and described the shawls woven by Kashmiri craftsmen on the Silk Road to India. True fiber is made from the soft undercoat of Kashmiri goats (Capra hircus). It is a fine woolen fabric that is derived from the undercoat of goats that live in the Himalayas. It is simply not possible to breed them in any other area. All because of the harsh weather conditions - in summer the temperature reaches 40 degrees, and in winter it drops to 50 with a minus sign. By the way, the name itself comes from the historical area in the Himalayas -cashmere.

The typical geographical conditions of mountain plateaus, East Asian steppes, and some deserts are the best in the world for growing fiber. This is the reason why goats produce the very undercoat from which the precious fabric is made.

Cashmere thread is twice as thin as human hair, and the down for its production is combed out from goats during the spring molt, and this is done exclusively by hand. From one animal about 200 grams of raw material are obtained, which after the end of cleaning gives only 100-110 grams. Quality natural cashmere wool is more than 2.5 times finer than human hair (approximately 17 to 20 micrometers in diameter), so it can only be knitted by hand.

The Origins of Cashmere: Where Does It Come From?

The history of cashmere and the origin of its name is inextricably linked to the Kashmir Valley, a place of mesmerizing beauty. The valley is located at an altitude of about 2000 meters above sea level, between the Himalayan mountain range and the Pir Panjal mountain range. The fourth padishah of the Mughal Empire, Abul-Fath Nur al-Din Muhammad Jahangir (Jahangir from Persian for "Conqueror of the World") was so impressed by the view of the valley that he called it "Paradise on Earth".

What is interesting, it did not always - according to legends, which are confirmed by Hindu historical sources and partly by Ptolemy, in time immemorial, in the middle between the Lesser and Greater Himalayas there was a large lake.

According to one version, the Kashmir Valley, or simply Kashmir, got its name from the name of the sage Kashyapa, Kāśyapa-mīr (Sanskrit Kāśyapa mīr), which means "Kāśyapa's sea". Another version says that Kashmir got its name from the Sanskrit words ka - water and śimīra - to dry, which translates as dried water or dried land.

And from the name Kashmir, in turn, got the name of the unique material cashmere, and this is not surprising, because the Kashmir valley is the birthplace of this fabric and the traditional place of its production for thousands of years!

With the beginning of the colonization of Asia, this luxurious fabric got to Europe only in the XVIII century, and the properties of pashmina were noticed by European navigators. Before that, the Old World did not know what this soft material was. European nobility appreciated pashmina at once.

By the way, there is a version that Napoleon's wife Josephine was the first to appreciate the tenderness of cashmere on her skin. She founded the fashion for warm but airy wool products that conquered the hearts of every European fashionista. Instantly, this fabric became one of the most expensive commodities for trade of those times.
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Factors That Affect Cashmere Cost

There's a reason this fabric is called "soft gold". It is one of the most luxurious and precious fibers in the world, known for its delicacy, softness, and warmth. Derived from the wool of cashmere breed goats, this fabric has a special popularity among fashion connoisseurs and connoisseurs of high-quality closet items. The price of this fabric depends on several factors that affect its production, quality, and availability.

The main reason for the high cost of the fabric is its rarity. The number of cashmere goats is not very large, and not all of them have enough wool quality to produce products. The hair of goats is very rare and requires special attention and care when harvesting. In addition, the process of collecting wool from soft animals is done only once a year, which makes it more representative and valuable.

However, another major reason for the high cost of the fabric is its production technology. Obtaining wool from cashmere goats requires a significant investment of time and energy. High quality goats live in cold climates and their wool is completely changed only once a year. This soft fiber is collected by hand by experienced women who comb it very carefully so as not to damage the fibers. The next stage, spinning and weaving, also requires specialized equipment and experience. All this makes production difficult and increases the price of cashmere.

The production process of this luxurious material is also labor intensive. The raw wool goes through a series of special treatments and cleaning to get rid of dirt, oil, and other impurities. The fibers are then graded for quality and color, selecting only the best for the production of the garments.

Quality and Softness: it is known for its unrivaled softness, warmth, and comfort. Quality cashmere has longer and finer fibers, making it even softer and more luxurious. High-quality one is only achieved through careful gathering, processing, and finishing, which increases its value.

Seasonality and Demand: it is often associated with winter or fall/winter clothing, making it in demand during the colder seasons. Since the demand for this fabric is greater at certain times, the price can also be higher. In addition, if the cashmere goat harvest is unsuccessful or limited, this can affect its price.

Those who do not know what cashmere is, think that the cost of it is very high. By the way, the price of clothing also depends on the color. "Basic, undyed fabric is white, sometimes with an ivory cast, as well as gray and black." Such things will be the most expensive because they consist of one hundred percent of cashmere thread. Not only natural dyes are used to color clothes, but also silk or wool is added to pashmina, which slightly reduces the price of the finished product.

In conclusion, the price of the fabric is due to its uniqueness, rarity, production technology, quality, and market demand. All these factors affect the price of the fabric, making it a luxurious and prestigious material.

Determining the Quality of Cashmere

The phrase " 100% Cashmere" on the label of a scarf is inspiring. Not everyone knows how to distinguish real material from synthetic. A good fake is difficult to distinguish from the real one with an inexperienced eye. Hence the difficulties. And yet there are some practical tips, following which you will never be deceived again (and you will not be deceived) when choosing accessories.

First of all, by touch - just run your hand over the sweater. Put your palm on a cashmere scarf. In a few seconds, you will feel how it fills with warmth, how the warmth spreads over your hand and warms you. Then you have a real thing in front of you. After all, its main purpose is to keep you warm. The warming property is explained by the habitat of mountain goats. They live high in the mountains, where winter temperatures rarely rise above -40-45 degrees Celsius. Goats are protected from the penetrating wind and severe frost by a thick and warm undercoat. The stronger the frost, the warmer it is.

From cashmere, unlike angora or mohair, small fluffs or threads do not fly off.

Remember the specific smell of smoldering plastic. Burning synthetic fiber exudes the same unpleasant smell. Wool just smells like soot. Fibers burn in different ways, too. It smokes and burns completely. Its charred pieces crumble in your fingers. Synthetics melt, not burn. As a result, a dense lump remains, which is difficult to crumble.

If there is cashmere in the composition, you will always notice thin (finer than a human hair!) fibers of down, creating a light haze on the surface of the product.

Cashmere garments can be identified by the presence of denser threads in the fabric, along with down.

If your palm is translucent through the fabric, then there is not enough cashmere in the composition.

To determine the quality of the material, stretch the sides of the fabric and release it - it should take on its original shape.

It is like gold and diamonds and if it is sold at a low price, it looks very suspicious.

Real and pure products are made dark, as dark down is much cheaper than light. And the manufacturer saves on raw materials. But even quite light cashmere is extremely difficult to color, as any dye applied to the down loses its brightness, and becomes a little faded, "smoky". If you see a cashmere product dyed in pure bright color, it is either made of white down (and the color will be "smoky"), or it was added a well-dyed fiber: wool, silk, or polyester.

Shine: cashmere down cannot shine, it is matte! If a scarf is shiny, it means that silk, viscose, or synthetic fibers have been added to it.

There is another nuance - the brightness of the color. Indian artisans dye the undercoat of mountain goats by hand and use plant juice and other natural additives. It is impossible to achieve a saturated color with natural dyeing. That is why cashmere down of high quality has muted smoky shades.

Do a small test - squeeze the fabric between your palms for 10 seconds. If it is cashmere, your hands will not just become warm, but almost hot, as the down not only perfectly retains, but also noticeably increases the heat.

More durable and qualitative is considered to be undyed cashmere, which more often comes in metallic and gray shades. Natural colors in the world of textiles are considered the most refined and show the quality of the wool. Often the threads are woven lurex threads or other materials. But connoisseurs recommend giving preference to pure cashmere, not mixed with wool.
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